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FOREWORD
THE BEBINGTON from Sir Henry Brett’s "White Wings"
The "Bebington" in 1879 made another long voyage of 135 days. The ship "Dunedin" sailing a week after the "Bebington", met similar weather conditions during the passage which was generally favourable, and sighted New Zealand coast forty days before the "Bebington". The "Lutterworth” sailing also from London for Wellington exactly a month after the "Bebington” arrived a day before her.
Very few passengers of the many hundreds who came out in the “Bebington" had a good word to say for her. In addition to being one of the slowest ships afloat, she was constantly dogged with misfortune.
A ship of 924 tons, she was built in 1859 and later purchased by the Shaw Savill Co. The "Bebington" was spoken of as "an old tub" by many of the settlers who arrived by her in New Zealand.
CAPTAIN, 1879: Captain Carelen - left London 12th August 1879, arrived 27th December 1879 – 135 days! Passengers were quarantined on Soames Island until 6th January l880.
Dimensions: 183’ 4” long, 33’ 1” wide, 20’4” depth
An iron Barque
Tonage: 924 net, 941 gross, 853 under deck
Built in Belfast 1859
THE SHIPBOARD DIARY OF MRS. GEORGE CARTER
Supplemented by notes from the diary of Mr. W. Bayliss on the Sailing Ship "Bebington" which left London on Monday, August 11th 1879.
Monday, 11th August 1879
We left Auntie’s this evening and came on board. We stayed in the dock all night and were tugged up the river this morning, Tuesday 12th. Before starting, we were very busy putting our cabin to rights. George has built in bunks for the children. During the evening one of our fellow passengers, who seems to be a lively fellow, entertained us with some music on the concertina. Had a good dinner consisting of roast beef and potatoes. In the afternoon a gentleman came with books and periodicals, and for those who had none, Bibles. He addressed a few words to the persons on deck and after wishing us a safe and pleasant voyage, took his leave. Afterwards, a ritualistic looking man called with more books. Afterwards tea and bread and butter, then we went on deck and then went to bed. There are two bulls on board in charge of a young man. They are the property of a manager of the Bank of New Zealand, who has a tract of land at Foxton.
Wednesday, 13th August
Rose at seven, after bathing the children, had breakfast and then on deck. The children put to sleep, unpacked while George put up more shelves, etc. The ship is beginning to rock and many of the passengers were sick. George and I lay on our beds feeling very ill. Little Annie was very sick but seemed all the better for it afterwards. Went on deck after tea when there was singing by the passengers.
Thursday, 14th August
Last night was disturbed by a great noise on board, and heard the Captain crying "all hands on deck" but feeling great confidence in our Captain, who has been to New Zealand 29 times, did not feel much alarmed. Found afterwards that we had nearly come into collision with a Dutch steamer which was cruising about. Spent most of the day on deck. Had some of our rations served out; did a little crochet work. In the evening feeling pretty well, cleaned up our cabin.
Friday, 15th August
George rose at 6am to get our water which is served in the early morning. We got up about seven after dressing. l dressed Annie; we had breakfast. Biscuits and butter only were served as we only received our flour yesterday afternoon, but we have some bread of our own left - we were better provided for than some of our fellow passengers. Made some bags for our provisions after dressing baby Nellie, had boiled salt pork and rice for dinner, peas not being yet distributed. Dinner over, went on deck - a lovely afternoon, the sea a glorious blue. The pilot not left the ship yet but giving orders to the crew in a very hoarse voice. Was much amused at the cries of the sailors as they pulled at the ropes. John is nursing baby while I write; he was much upset with the weather yesterday, the ship beginning to rock, but seems alright today. Most of the people on board are keeping diaries, though the children rushing about makes it impossible to be very quiet.
Saturday, 16th August
Very rough weather, went on deck in the morning but had to go to bed in the afternoon. Spent Sunday there and most of Monday; got up Monday evening but had to stay Tuesday and most of Wednesday. Was not able to dress. The children bear it very well but they were rather sick. George had to get up, though scarcely able to wait on us. The persons in the next cabin, Tom and Lizzie Bayliss and their three children, have been very kind in dressing the little ones, etc.
Thursday, 20th August
The weather better and so are we, it rained all morning, but we wrapped up well and stayed on deck as it is close downstairs and makes us feel quite ill to stay there. We sighted Eddystone Lighthouse today. I did some washing - handkerchiefs and bibs, and dried them on the poop. Caught the water yesterday when it rained. Had preserved potatoes for dinner today and found them very good. We like the New Zealand stewed mutton much better than the salt pork and beef. Have made arrangements with the cook to make our bread, three cabins for £1.
Friday, 21st August
Last night one of the second class passengers caught his bed on fire. He was not sober when he went to bed and went to sleep smoking a cigar. He tried to put it out, but if one of his room-mates had not helped him, the consequences might have been dreadful. A jury of his fellows decided the best punishment for him, as there was no suitable place to confine him, would be to ignore him for the rest of the voyage - a dreadful punishment, I think, as there is nothing to do and you want to be friendly to get along and pass the time away. It was very rough this morning and things went flying about and I could not keep my feet and dared not move from sickness, better this afternoon. On deck saw the lights of the Lizard Point tonight. During the day we could distinguish cornfields and hedges. The sun shining on them made us long to be on land again.
Saturday, 22nd August
The lady in the next cabin (Mrs.Tom Bayliss) very ill, had not been so well since we came on board has three little ones, the baby aged 4 months. Saw some seagulls - we are much better and all on deck. Have got out of the channel.
Sunday, 23rd August
Had a service on deck this morning conducted by one of the passengers, in the afternoon had singing and reading etc., very nice weather. In the evening had service again.
Monday, 24th August
A glorious day, the sea looks a glorious dark blue streaked with lively waves. Yesterday a child of two years taken into Hospital; it is thought diptheria; have had our cabins-fumigated; makes us feel rather anxious about our little ones. On Sunday morning had a newspaper started, brought to us as we sat at breakfast. The child much better today. The person next to us still very weak. We intend having a concert on Thursday.
Sunday, 30th August
Have not been able to go on with this through the illness of my little Annie, she had been ill all week with diarrhoea and is scarcely able to stand, takes all one person’s time. She is very patient with it. Today dear little Nell not well but she keeps in good spirits. We have had some rough weather and little progress. The last two days very fine but the vessel rolls a good deal. Did not get the paper today, an accident happening while it was in the press - promised for tomorrow. Nearly all the grown people well, most of the children not so well. Had a service on deck this morning, singing afternoon and evening. There are lots of things we wish that we had brought - finished our wine.
Wednesday, 2nd September
The Bay of Biscay true to its character, gave us a good tossing.
Friday, 4th September
One of the sheep died this morning and had to be thrown overboard.
Sunday, 7th September
Have been unable to write on account of the children. Had a concert on Thursday evening; we had the entertainment on the deck consisting of singing, recitation, and reading. George read a piece from “Pickwick Papers". Have had beautiful weather and the ship makes fair progress; saw a great quantity of porpoises at the beginning of the week. The evenings are splendid, the stars are so bright and they and the moon seem so near. I manage to join George on deck in the evening now the children rest better. My health is pretty good. George feels it much more than I do. We sighted five vessels today; one bound for East India was within a mile of us; she rocked about a good deal while we were going steadily along. John has been ill, but is improving. I wish we had more preserves with us as ours is nearly done. Should know better what to bring going on another voyage.
Monday, 8th September
Spent most of the day on deck, made oat cakes this morning, also made a stew for dinner and had pudding with it made from sea biscuits. Have had tea on deck, which we generally do when it is not too rough. The children keep improving. George seems alright and John much better. Spoke with a vessel this morning bound for Brazil from France; she started August 11th.
Thursday, 11th September
Saw another vessel on Tuesday, the City of Calcutta bound from the Clyde to Bombay. Yesterday a lovely day and we had all our meals on deck; one of the children caught a flying fish; they say that they are delicious cooked and are rather smaller than a herring and have large fins like wings. Went on deck after the children were in bed; had some music. The spray dashed over and wet some persons, though it only sprinkled us however. We passed 60 miles off Cape Verde Islands. The days seem to get longer, as we are in the tropics now, where we arrived on Tuesday; expect to get in the Doldrums by Sunday. It is very pleasant this morning, a nice breeze, it gets rather hot later on.
Saturday, 13th September
Last evening the sailors caught two fish; we had been watching them in the day, there were such a number of them leaping out of the water and at the same time shoals of flying fish, flying along. They look so pretty and shine like silver, The bonita are dark and not unlike mackerel only larger. The back is a lovely dark blue with stripes down it. They in the next berth had a piece from a sailor. It was nicely cooked; they gave me some and we had it for breakfast and liked it very much. The flesh is dark, the colour of hare when cooked, the flavour something like mackerel and hare together. Last week we had a tin of carrots; we had it warmed for Sunday dinner with some New Zealand tinned mutton. Today we had a tin of onions. We had boiled pork and made a sauce with the onions, it was very good.
Sunday, 14th September
The weather intensely hot; last night George slept on the benches outside our berth; we must stay on deck if it gets much hotter, there is very little shade. We had dinner on deck.
Monday, 22nd September
It has been hot but now much cooler, we get some lovely sunsets. l never saw anything to equal them. Last night it was splendid and we could only look and wonder.
Thursday, 9th October (my birthday)
Had a very pleasant day after all. In the morning George surprised me by the present of a very nice new hat, and John got the cook to make me a pudding - such a one as has not gladdened our eyes for many a day and didn't we just enjoy it even to little Nell. We get John’s stores now, so are much better off than we were. Are the dear ones at home thinking of me? l am sure they are. The people here have been giving me their good wishes. How I long for the letters l used to get with birthday wishes.
Friday, 10th October
John Tom’s birthday. l have thought of him often since l came on board.
Saturday, 11th October
Very hot; we are becalmed; it is interesting to listen to the sailors sitting on the poop whistling for the wind.
Sunday, 12th October
Still becalmed; dear mother's birthday. Will it be long before I see her dear face again; not many years I hope. A glorious sunset; I never saw anything like it before. The sailors caught a dolphin 4ft. long. The captain had never seen one so long before. They look splendid in the water with their colours changing. There were two of them; the other kept about the ship all evening - he would not be caught however.
Monday, 15th October
Saw a pair of dolphins. Had a royal supper. Fresh potatoes, carrots, beef and gravy. We did enjoy it. The ship has rolled dreadfully all day. Took a walk up and down the deck after supper.
Tuesday, 14th October
We are going a little faster. Have finished my antimacassa; the weather still bright and pleasant but we roll a good bit.
Sunday, 19th October
Yesterday we saw some puffins; they are like ducks. They look grand sailing on the water and can fly a long distance, but do not fly very high. Girl is out of hospital and a little boy taken in. The children keep pretty well, we go slowly, the ship rolls a good deal and the time drags wearily. We long for the prospect of our journey coming to an end. The children are happy, but being with others so much does not improve their tempers. George has commenced a picture frame.
Wednesday, 22nd October
Very rough the last few days, have seen some cape pigeons. We are not able to stay on deck. George takes the children up one at a time. We had another lovely sunset on the 19th, such colours. Those who have never seen sunsets can have no conception of what they are like. The little girl's birthday - in the next cabin to us. She is four years old today. She had a letter to open - it contained, with the letter, some pretty cards and ribbons and caused great excitement among them. John looks after us well since he has been in the galley. He looks better and brighter and says that the time passes much quicker. The weather has got colder every day since we came out of the tropics, and we are glad of our warm things when we go on deck. The wind and rocking prevents our spending so much time there as we would like. Made Nellie a coat today, also Annie a doll - a Frenchman on board painted its face. Dear Baby Nellie’s birthday of 16th was a fine day. She has six teeth.
Sundav, 26th October
We have been getting along much better, have made 11 knots an hour - we are now making only 6 knots. The ship goes much steadier when we are getting along. Very wet the last few days. George takes the children up in turn and gets under shelter. Little Norman Grace still in Hospital, is nearly well however. John begins to look firstrate, my Annie grows and gets fat, Nellie is well. George and I are alright, we have breakfast at 7a.m. George makes our porridge, we eat raw sugar and butter with it - it does us all good. Yesterday the sea looked grand, the great waves rolled to such a height and curled themselves over. The birds were flying with their great wings outspread. The sea reminds one so of life; we have seen it as smooth as glass in the tropics, when the sun was setting it would be like fire and glass mingled together, and oh the glorious changing colours of the sky. Now the sky looks grey and it is wet and damp, reminding us of our October days at home - have our meals in our berth now for quiet.
Thursday, 30th October
We are now in the latitude of Cape Town.
Sunday, 2nd November
We have had several wet days, but now fine, though very cold and we are all glad to turn into our berth for warmth. We expect to round the Cape in a few days so may reach land this month. l sincerely hope we shall. Top coats, thick jackets and shawls are indispensible now. l cannot wrap the chicks up too much. Annie runs about, she gets about better than l do when the ship is rolling and does not mind a tumble. We cannot keep them up on deck long for cold. Several whales have been seen. George called me up in time to see the back of one and the water spouting up. There are a number of birds flying about, Cape Pigeons and others.
Saturday, 8th November
Mabel and Dan Bayliss went into hospital with scarletena.
Sunday, 9th November
Weather rough today. Annie fell and bit her lip through. lt bled very much and she has had it plastered, has been to sleep and had some milk and bread and seems better. No service today, it was too rough and cold. The children are rather better on Sundays.
Sunday, 16th November
No service today, too rough.
Tuesday, 18th November
Still very cold, we passed an iceberg in the night and have had some very rough weather, the waves were right over the deck. On Sunday a great wave came over and the water went right down out hatchway and drenched a little boy at the side opposite ours and went into their berth. The captain came down and ordered the boys to bring buckets and dip and mop it up; it was two feet deep on deck. Since l last wrote there have been several children taken ill. Little Norman Grace came out of hospital; the next day, Nov.8th, Mabel and Dan Bayliss, two children from the next berth to us, went in, none of them very ill, but being scarlet fever it makes us anxious for our little ones. We are going better now, hope to reach Wellington in about three weeks. The sea now is a grand sight and were it not so bitterly cold, could stay and watch it for hours. The waves rise mountains high, leaving valleys. The birds are flying all about, such numbers of them. I had heard of, but never seen the sea in all its glory until now. The sight will last my lifetime, shall not want to go in a sailing vessel again, Annie’s lip much better, she is already wanting paper to write to Grannie.
Wednesday, 26th November
It has been decided for some time by the Captain, to go South of the Middle Island and up the East Coast. It is reported that there is no chart of Cook Straight on board so it is necessary to go round. We are now far enough South, and have commenced to turn due East.
Sunday, 30th November
Still on the water with little prospect of being off for some time; if we make a good day, the next we go mile out of our way. There have been a number of birds caught. They cast a line and hook for them. The Captain caught two Albatros - they are a large bird and are ten feet from tip to tip of their wings, the body the size of a large goose. Also caught 9 Mollyhawkes. They are about 5 feet across the wings and the body nearly as large as the Albatros; some snow birds and Cape pigeons. The Snow Bird was a beautiful creature about the size of a dove, all white, the feathers on the neck and breast a lavender hue. We are troubled with rats. I had the wing of a Cape Pigeon given to me, it was dressed and placed to dry - it disappeared. George was moving some boxes and boards only the other day and lo underneath were a few feathers, all that remained of my wing, the rats had taken it. The wing of the Albatros is splendid, nearly all white, with lovely downy feathers amongst the breast while the back and outside of the wings is black. Saw a whale today, it came round the ship three times. We are going more South than we thought, still cold, pretty steady today. I should like Mother to see me on a rough day making cakes, the ship gives a lurch just as I am mixing it, I hold the board for support and clutch hold of my dish; if not down it goes, upsetting the contents, and flour is so very precious it grieves me to lose any. I make a very good cake; 2 cups of boiled rice, 1½ soaked preserved potatoes, 1 of flour, 2 tablespoons of sugar, a cup of raisins or currants, salt, ½lb dripping - it makes the bread hold out. I have Johns flour or should be short as Nellie depends on her eating now and she and Annie have good appetites, they are fat and well and are very entertaining. Annie keeps saying “when we get to Wellington, won’t it be nice”. John looks firstrate and is much stouter than when we came on board - so are George and l.
Monday, 1st December
Very cold - not going on very fast; the officers and seamen say that it is the most tedious passage they have experienced. It is 100 days since we saw any land.
Saturday, 6th December
We had a few hours distant view of a vessel. We had only seen one beside it since October. Suppose she is bound for New Zealand. It is a treat to see it after so long; it is quite refreshing to see anything beside water, even a bit of seaweed floating past is quite an event.
Wednesday, 10th December
The children who were ill, Mabel and Dan Bayliss, are out of hospital. Annie taken with Scarletina on Friday. We came in hospital on Saturday, have been in a week. Annie getting along nicely, has begun to eat a little - is losing her skin. Passed the Snares yesterday; hope to reach Wellington in a week. Have begun letters home.
Tuesday, 16th December (From W,B.'s Diary)
Another week of adverse weather; it is a matter of speculation where we shall spend Christmas. The molasses has been gone some time and we had sugar for several weeks but it is getting short now. This is a great loss as we used it on our porridge, rice, etc. We are now 126 days out and 1000 miles from Wellington. Yesterday we spoke to a vessel - the “Lady Brice" going to Otago.
Saturday, 20th December
We are approaching the New Zealand coast, great excitement on board. We have passed the Snares Rocks south of Stewart Island - on l9th.
Sunday, 21st December
We have seen some distant hills which are supposed to be Stewart Island. With glasses can catch a glimpse of Banks Peninsular.
Wednesday, 24th December (Christmas Eve)
Saw the Snowcapped Mountains of the Eiddle lsland. Norman Grace taken ill with convulsions - died before 12p.m.
Thursday, 25th December (Christmas Day)
The funeral took place at 8a.m. It has thrown a gloom over us all. George made an excellent plum pudding for dinner.
Friday, 26th December
Can see the ranges of mountains on the North Island. We are only two miles from land. Can distinguish green enclosures and sheep in them. George made a capital cake today.
From now on; from the Diary of William Bayliss
Saturday, 27th December (Wellington Harbour)
We dropped anchor on the Eastern side of Soames Island at 9 o'clock last night. We had very favourable weather for getting into Wellington Harbour. We had a good view of the South Coast of the North Island all day. The entire Coast is rugged and mountainous and somewhat frightened some of the passengers.
Where we lay on Christmas Day proved to be somewhere off Te Awaiti, so we had a good view of the coast where Dan lived (Cape Patterson).
In the shed at the landing, our eyes were charmed by the sight of heaps of fresh beef, mutton and potatoes, etc. We are living most sumptuously on fresh meat for every meal. The Island is about two miles long and one wide. From several points we have a good view of Wellington. The scenery from the summit including the whole circle of the Harbour, is truly magnificent. The Island itself is most picturesque and I could well do with a fortnight here if it were not so near the Hutt.
Yesterday was our first Sunday in New Zealand. We had the usual services in a large room, set apart for the purpose. It was a beautiful day and more of the people were rambling on the Island.
Tuesday, 30th December
We are beginning to feel better and having rare doings now. Had some fresh New Zealand butter for the first time yesterday; it is good as a king’s. The bread is as good as any I have tasted. We had some milk yesterday. Tom has a pint of new milk for the children. A boat comes every day with provisions and yesterday it brought me a parcel from J.Edge containing a dozen oranges. I don’t know where they grew. I never saw anything so fine in England.
Thursday, 1st January 1880
A happy New Year to friends in England. It is a most beautiful day. New Year's Day is quite a holiday out here. Excursion steamers have been running all day from Wellington to Lowry Bay on the other side of the Harbour. Ours is a wonderful position for seeing all that is going on. T Archer and I went with a party to see a very remarkable cave. A subterranean passage of about 20 yards leads into a cavern about 26ft. in diameter and in the center about 12ft high and open South towards the harbour by an Archway about a dozen feet long, which makes you think of smugglers and bandits' caves in history.
We are not certain when we shall move, it is expected in a day or two. The washing is now all completed – a wonderful place for drying. It is a great advantage to come here and get everything washed up and have a few days of good living and get straight.
The "Bebington" lies where she was first anchored. They have been cleaning, painting and fumigating her. The arrival of the boat from Wellington is a great event - a good number of us go down to meet her and see if there is anything for us. There are many fish, and fishing is the rage. The inspector was here yesterday and admitted the ship and it moved away to Wellington. We went to the top of the hill to see it go. We are to leave the Island on the 6th if no fresh case breaks out.
I have found lots of caverns around the Island, which is of volcanic origin.
Tuesday, 6th January
We have at last reached our destination!